Disclaimer: All views expressed on this blog are my own based on my own experiences and do not represent of any entity with which I have been, are now or will be affiliated

May 16, 2025
Batangas, Philippines

Hike Dates: April 6–19
April 18: Flight from Lukla to Kathmandu
April 19: Rest day in Kathmandu

Nepal Travel Guide here
Stories of Himalayan adventure here

Table of Contents
1. Comprehensive Itinerary for the Everest Base Camp Trek from Day5-7

April 10 (Thursday) – Day 5: Tengboche
Starting Elevation: 11,290 ft / 3,440 m
Ending Elevation: 12, 713ft/3875m
Temperature: 0-5°C
Hiking Time: 9 hours including descent (at my own pace)

Leaving Namche – Trek to Tengboche

After spending two nights in Namche, we packed up and began the next leg of our journey. I fueled up with my usual American breakfast—scrambled eggs, two slices of bread with butter or strawberry jam, some potatoes, and an Americano. From there, we hit the trail, starting with a steep ascent that eventually transitioned into a mix of gentle descents and flat terrain over the course of about two hours. Unfortunately, it started to rain along the way, so we had to make several stops to check our gear and keep our packs dry.

Roughly 2.5 hours into the trek, we reached High Mountain Bakery and Cafe in Kyamjuma. I treated myself to a Snickers bar and a soda for 1000 NPR (about 500 PHP)—a much-needed energy boost for the tough hike ahead. I had naively hoped that today’s trek would be easier than yesterday’s, but I’ve come to realize that after Phakding, there are no easy days. The weather was gloomy, so we couldn’t enjoy the mountain views, but the cafe did have a restroom—payment was by donation, which was a thoughtful touch in such a remote place.

We continued trekking along the Dudh Khosi River until we arrived at the village of Sanasa. With each step, the scenery grew more breathtaking. One of the highlights of the day was spotting three yaks along the trail—my first yak sighting of the trek. Seeing them brought a surprising sense of calm and joy, and reminded me to take in the beauty around me despite the physical strain.

The trail then descended, winding through a series of small villages before leading us to a bridge that crossed the river. Here, at Ever Green Lodge and Restaurant, we had our final opportunity to stop for tea and lunch before tackling the most challenging part of the day. I was so exhausted I could barely express how I felt. For lunch, I had a plate of fried noodles topped with scrambled eggs and cheese—fuel for the grueling 2-hour uphill climb that lay ahead.

The final 2.5 kilometers were a relentless uphill battle. We had to fall back into formation, and I lost count after 200 steps. All I remember is how unbelievably hard it was. I couldn’t help but admire the strength and resilience of the guides and porters around us—hauling heavy loads as if gravity doesn’t apply to them. They’re truly on another level.

After about 2.5 hours (and a few internal swear words), we finally reached Tengboche. Ironically, there’s a sign at the National Park entrance that says no swearing or fighting is allowed—which feels almost comical after a climb like that. The rain continued, and with the mist hanging in the air, I couldn’t even get a clear view of our surroundings. At that point, I just wanted to stop walking and rest.

Tengboche Monastery

Tengboche is home to one of Nepal’s most revered monasteries. Set against the dramatic backdrop of Mt. Ama Dablam, it’s a prominent Buddhist spiritual center in the Khumbu region. The monastery houses a resident Rinpoche who offers blessings to pilgrims, trekkers, and mountaineers. It’s also a key cultural site that provides a window into Sherpa life. The Sherpas, who migrated from Tibet around 600 years ago, remain the region’s primary indigenous community.

After visiting the monastery, we hiked for another hour through a landscape that reminded me of a mossy forest, with mani prayer stones lining the path. Just when I thought we had arrived at our homestay, we discovered we had to climb even more stairs to get there. At this altitude, even a short climb feels like a major challenge.

Tengboche sits atop a mountain ridge, and temperatures can plummet at night. Only the common room was heated—with a traditional yak dung stove. Luckily, our beds came with thick comforters, and we had sleeping bags to help get us through the cold night. This was also the first night I skipped a shower—the water was ice cold, and the homestay had no dedicated shower area. We had a private toilet, but no running water or bidet. To flush or wash, we had to collect freezing water from outside. And since our room was on the third floor, even going to the toilet felt like another mini trek.

There was no Wi-Fi or internet available, which added to the sense of isolation. But despite the increasing difficulty, I kept reminding myself that this is part of the adventure. Things are getting harder with the elevation, but that’s what makes the journey unforgettable. This kind of challenge may be crazy—but that’s exactly why we’re here.

After taking some time to rest, we gathered for dinner—though I honestly can’t remember exactly what I had that evening. Most likely, it was noodles again, a common and comforting meal on the trail. After dinner, we called it a night to get some much-needed rest in preparation for the next day’s hike.

April 11 (Friday) – Day 6: Dingboche and Acclimatization
Starting Elevation: 12,713ft/3875m
Ending Elevation: 14,470ft/4410m
Temperature: 2 to-5°C
Hiking Time: 8-9 hours including descent (at my own pace)

Trek to Dingboche from Tengboche: A Scenic and Strenuous Himalayan Journey

We began our trek bright and early at 7:30 AM, after a warm breakfast. The morning air was crisp, and the skies were slightly overcast as we stepped onto the rugged trail. Within minutes, we crossed a sturdy suspension bridge and continued along a relatively flat and peaceful section of the path. As gentle ascents appeared, I made a few short and deliberate stops to conserve energy—there was no need to overexert so early in the day.

Pangboche Village

After a physically demanding two-hour hike, we reached the quaint and picturesque village of Pangboche. The trail had left us tired, so we took a restful break at the cozy Everest View Lodge and Restaurant for some hot and soothing ginger lemon tea. We initially wandered into the wrong eatery—Sherpa Cafe and Bakery—but quickly found our intended stop just a few meters away. On clear days, Pangboche offers stunning panoramic views of the majestic Ama Dablam, but unfortunately, clouds blocked our view during this visit. The lodge, however, offered the welcome comfort of a clean and free toilet—an underrated luxury in the mountains.

Feeling slightly refreshed, we resumed our scenic trek. About an hour later, we were treated to a spectacular sight—Himalayan tahr, or mountain goats, gracefully navigating the steep rocky cliffs beside us. They were confidently leaping from one narrow ledge to another, munching on sparse mountain vegetation. It was an unforgettable moment; I was ecstatic to witness such agile, wild creatures thriving in their natural high-altitude environment.

Lunch Stop – Annapurna Lodge

Just one more hour of walking brought us to our next rest point, Annapurna Lodge and Restaurant. There, I had a plate of warm fried noodles topped with scrambled eggs and grated cheese, along with another cup of ginger lemon tea—a simple but comforting Himalayan meal.

Breathtaking Dingboche

As we entered Dingboche, a remote and windswept village, we were welcomed by a pack of mountain dogs resting around the settlement. It was a heartwarming sight that lifted our spirits. From there, we continued our gradual but relentless ascent toward the village’s revered stupa. After a challenging 2.5-hour uphill trek, we finally reached it. The fluttering prayer flags, dancing in the sharp mountain breeze, created a magical, spiritual atmosphere. This was the highest altitude I had ever reached, and I felt both deeply grateful and physically drained.

Dingboche, nestled at a staggering 4,410 meters (14,470 feet), is one of the most peaceful and scenic stops in the Khumbu region. The soothing sound of the Imja River flows nearby, while dramatic views of snow-covered Himalayan peaks surround the village. Since there are no roads leading to Dingboche, everything must be transported by foot or pack animals. Along the way, we encountered lines of yaks, horses, and even buffaloes hauling heavy loads of supplies—a reminder of how remote and resilient this mountain community truly is.

Goodluck Hotel

We descended into the village and checked into our homestay, Goodluck Hotel. After a much-needed break and yet another cup of revitalizing ginger lemon tea, I learned there was a small café nearby. I went to check it out, only to find it closed and under construction. Instead, I stayed in the homestay’s warm common area, heated by a traditional Bukhari— large stove that uses yak dung as fuel was a comforting haven from the bitter, freezing cold outside.

The accommodation was simple but adequate. There were a few shared bathrooms, and like most places at this altitude, no dedicated shower facilities. The water was icy cold, and while a hot shower was available for 800 NPR (around 400 PHP), I decided to skip it. Wi-Fi was available for purchase—1600 NPR (800 PHP) for 48 hours with 10GB of data or 1100 NPR (550 PHP) for 24 hours with 7GB. I opted for the 48-hour package so I could stay in touch with friends and family. The connection was generally decent, although it occasionally dropped in the rooms.

Dinner was a plate of plain but filling macaroni. It wasn’t gourmet by any means, but at the end of a long, cold day in the Himalayas, it was exactly what I needed. After that, I headed to bed, wrapped in thick blankets and a sleeping bag, ready to rest and recharge for the next leg of this awe-inspiring adventure.

April 12 (Saturday) – Day 7: Second Acclimatization Day
Starting Elevation: 14,470ft/4410m
Ending Elevation: 15518ft/4730m
Temperature: -2 to -5 degree Celsius
Hiking Time: 4-5 hours including descent (at my own pace)

Morning Views & Motivation

We woke up to an incredibly clear morning, greeted by the majestic Himalayas waving their snowy hello. From our homestay window, we were treated to a perfect view of the striking Ama Dablam—a mountain that never fails to amaze with its sharp, iconic silhouette.

After a hearty breakfast at the lodge, we geared up for our acclimatization hike to Chukhung Valley. We resumed our usual trekking formation, with me positioned second next to Ruby. Despite it being early in the day, I was already feeling fatigued—the uphill climb was relentless. But the awe-inspiring scenery gave me the boost I needed to keep going.

The Ascent to Chukhung Valley 

The next two hours were a tough uphill push, but every step brought more breathtaking views. The landscape surrounding Chukhung Valley was nothing short of magical. Towering snow-draped peaks loomed in every direction, and the pristine beauty of the region unfolded around us.

We had a clear view of the formidable Mount Lhotse—the fourth highest mountain in the world—and the striking, pyramid-shaped Ama Dablam. The valley stretched out below us, bordered by rugged cliffs and sprinkled with hardy vegetation. Nearby, patches of snow and glistening glaciers reflected the sunlight like mirrors in the crisp mountain air. It felt like walking through a dreamscape.

A Moment of Bliss

I fell in love with the Himalayas all over again. For me, this was the most beautiful viewpoint of the trek so far. As the clouds began to clear, the full majesty of the range unfolded in front of us—it was humbling, surreal, and deeply emotional. I felt overwhelmed with joy, gratitude, and a renewed appreciation for life.

Reaching the top of our acclimatization point after two hours felt victorious. The panoramic views were well worth the effort, and we spent plenty of time taking photos, laughing, and soaking in the moment. Even though it was a steep ascent, the scenery made it feel completely manageable. This entire acclimatization hike was easily one of my favorites.

After enjoying the views and capturing the memories, we began our descent back to the Dingboche village.

A Cozy Afternoon at French Bakery Cafe

Later in the afternoon, we strolled about 10 minutes from our homestay and discovered a delightful little spot—French Bakery Cafe. With its cozy atmosphere, books to read, available Wi-Fi, and charging ports, it felt like a warm haven in the middle of the Himalayas. Comfortable chairs, colorful prayer flags, and even a clean outdoor toilet added to its charm.

At 3:00 PM, the cafe hosts a movie screening, and we were lucky enough to catch Mountain Queen: The Summits of Lhakpa Sherpa, a documentary of the first Nepali woman to summit Mt. Everest and also available on Netflix. It was inspiring and perfect for our rest day. I indulged in a chocolatey dessert and a comforting café latte—small luxuries that felt extra special in such a remote setting.

Cafes like this, nestled in the high mountains, have a comforting and almost magical quality to them. It was the perfect way to unwind after the demanding morning trek.

Evening Routine & Oxygen Check

As the temperature dropped rapidly in the late afternoon, we headed back to our homestay around 6:00 PM. Dinner was simple yet satisfying—macaroni (again, not baked, spaghetti-style) and shared slices of pizza from fellow trekkers. After such a long day, I had a big appetite and truly enjoyed the meal.

Later that evening, we did our oxygen saturation checks—a critical part of high-altitude trekking. My reading was at 75%, which is below the normal 90%, but still within a range where some can function, especially at elevation. At summit levels, some even manage with levels as low as 60%. Still, it was a reminder that we were now deep in high-altitude territory, and every step forward would require greater care and endurance.

We wrapped up the night in anticipation of the next leg of our journey—the trek to Lobuche.

Key Tip: Watch Your O2 Levels at High Altitudes

Altitude	Expected Healthy O₂ Level
Below 1,350m	90–95%
Up to 2,800m	92–93%
Up to 3,400m	85–90%
Up to 4,000m	80–83%
Up to 5,000m	75–80%
Up to 5,500m	70–75%

The journey is getting closer to Everest Base Camp more on my Day 8-9 itinerary here.

With love from the Himalayas,
Maria, sometimes, Niskie 🏔️✨