Stopped by the world’s highest bakery and finally reached Everest Base Camp! Stunning views, triumph, and unforgettable moments await—curious how it all went? Read my blog!

Disclaimer: All views expressed on this blog are my own based on my own experiences and do not represent of any entity with which I have been, are now or will be affiliated

May 17, 2025
Batangas, Philippines

Hike Dates: April 6–19
April 18: Flight from Lukla to Kathmandu
April 19: Rest day in Kathmandu

Nepal Travel Guide here
Stories of Himalayan adventure here

April 13 (Sunday) – Day 8: Trek to Lobuche
Starting Elevation: 15518ft/4730m
Ending Elevation: 16164ft/4928m
Temperature: -2 to -5 degree Celsius
Hiking Time: 6 hours (at my own pace)

The Journey Continues: From Dingboche to Thokla Pass and Lobuche

After a restful night and a hearty breakfast in Dingboche, we were ready to hit the trail again. The path from our hotel climbs gently towards a Buddhist stupa perched on a tall hill, which marks a junction for several different trails. Compared to yesterday’s steep ascent, today’s trail is much more gradual. While some might find it a bit dull, the flat terrain allowed us to take our time, snapping plenty of photos along the way.

Restroom facilities were limited, so if nature called, you had to find a more private spot. We said goodbye to the suspension bridges, prayer wheels, and scrubby bushes. From here, we were entering the land of towering mountains, vast plains, packed dirt, rocks, and very little vegetation. The trail became less defined, with dry, dusty patches, and the towns grew fewer and farther apart, with basic amenities.

Once again, we were trekking in single file, with our Sherpa leader, Lkhapa, leading the way. This helped establish a steady pace for the group, crucial for acclimatization as we pushed further into the high-altitude environment.

Cafe Thukla

After about two hours of hiking, we arrived at Cafe Thukla, situated at 4,620 meters. There, we enjoyed some refreshing ginger lemon tea and made use of the restrooms, which were free of charge. We took a much-needed break before setting off once more.

We continued northwest, passing above the village of Pheriche and heading toward the small settlement of Dugla. While the trail to Dugla offers some incredible views of Ama Dablam, we were unfortunately met with overcast skies, so the famous sight remained hidden.

From Dugla, we began the tough, zigzagging climb up the moraine of the Khumbu Glacier. Though the climb wasn’t long, it felt challenging, especially as we neared 5,000 meters. One of our teammates was suffering from Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) and nearly collapsed. It took about 1.5 hours to reach the top, and we made sure to take it slow. Even though the climb seemed manageable at first, the thinning air made it increasingly difficult. This has been a tough trek since Day 1, especially as we ascended toward Namche Bazaar.

Thokla Pass

At the end of the climb, we reached Thokla Pass, a place marked by memorials to climbers who have tragically lost their lives in the Everest region. For anyone familiar with mountaineering history, many of the names etched on the stones will be recognizable. Reaching the top brought a sense of relief, as the terrain flattened out and we were treated to beautiful views of the valley below.

The ascent earlier in the day was particularly challenging due to strong, biting winds. At times, the cold wind triggered headaches, but I was prepared—I had packed mefenamic acid, which helped ease the discomfort. When hiking at this altitude, every small bit of preparation makes a big difference.

Sherpa The Highest Bakery Cafe and Hotel Mother Earth Lobuche

After another 1.5 hours of trekking from Thokla Pass, we finally arrived at the Sherpa The Highest Bakery Cafe and our homestay in Lobuche. It had been a grueling trek, but we made it. After lunch, we enjoyed dessert at the highest bakery in the world—a truly unique experience! They only accept cash here, and I indulged in a piece of chocolate cake with a coffee. It was a fun and memorable moment, especially when I wrote my name on the cafe’s wall as a souvenir.

Our homestay provided only the most basic comforts. The toilets were shared, and water became scarce—particularly at night. By then, the temperature had plummeted, and the cold was almost unbearable. Fortunately, I had my sleeping bag for warmth, and the body warmers I picked up in Namche Bazaar were a lifesaver, helping me get through the freezing night. After a simple dinner, I made my way to the third floor, where we were staying, and settled in for the night.

April 14(Monday) – Day 9: Trek to Gorak Shep and Everest Base Camp
Starting Elevation: 16164ft/4928m
Ending Elevation: 17598ft/5364m
Temperature: -5 to -15 degree Celsius
Hiking Time: 4 hours (at my own pace) Gorak Shep
Hiking Time: 2 hours (at my own pace) From Gorak Shep to EBC

Gorak Shep to Everest Base Camp

It was snowing heavily outside our homestay when we finished breakfast—an early start to a long and freezing day. Bundled up and braving the cold, we began our ascent to Gorak Shep, followed by our final push to Everest Base Camp that afternoon. The cold was biting, but thankfully, the extra down jacket provided by our trek organizer made a huge difference. However, the wind was relentless, and I had to cover my head carefully to avoid headaches caused by the sharp, icy air.

We started our trek at 6:00 AM, determined and focused. This was the final leg—the moment we had all been preparing for. The sky was overcast, visibility was limited, and the atmosphere was straight out of a Game of Thrones scene—like Jon Snow’s “Winter is Coming” moment. The trail weaved over and around glacial moraines, gradually gaining altitude. Though the path was well-marked, it narrowed in many places and was busy with both trekkers and yaks heading in both directions.

The trek from Lobuche to Gorak Shep typically takes about 3–4 hours, during which we gained nearly 300 meters in elevation. At this point, every step felt heavy and labored. Anyone who’s experienced high-altitude trekking knows how much the lower oxygen levels slow you down—it was no different for us. Even the relatively simple task of walking became exhausting.ove dogs, they are the best!

Yeti Resort, Gorak Shep

After roughly four hours of trekking through snow-covered trails, we arrived at Yeti Resort in Gorak Shep—our last homestay before reaching base camp. We paused for an early lunch and some warming ginger lemon tea. Fatigue was clearly setting in. Many of us were showing signs of altitude effects—headaches, shortness of breath, and extreme tiredness. I seriously considered postponing the EBC trek to the next day, but our itinerary had us moving forward, so after a brief rest, we geared up for the final stretch.

Yeti Resort offers basic but comfortable amenities, including shared toilets. One thing I appreciated was that they accept card payments, though there’s a 10% service charge for card transactions. They also provide Wi-Fi access—a 24-hour, 10GB data package costs around ₱550, which is quite handy for staying connected in such a remote area.

The rooms were cozy, with soft beds, comfortable pillows, and thick comforters that provided much-needed warmth in the freezing temperatures. We stayed here after completing our trek to Everest Base Camp, and it was a welcome place to rest and recover.

A pleasant surprise on the menu was their prawn crackers, which we ordered after our long day of trekking. They were incredibly satisfying—crispy and flavorful—priced at around ₱500. It might seem like a simple snack, but after a day like that, it hit the spot.

The Final Push to Everest Base Camp

At around 12:00 PM, we set off for the final stretch of our trek to Everest Base Camp. Thankfully, our porters were carrying our backpacks—something we were incredibly grateful for, as it significantly eased the physical strain. Along the way, we encountered caravans of yaks making their way back to Gorak Shep, loaded with supplies.

While the trail itself wasn’t particularly technical, traversing rocky paths, and thick snow made the journey challenging. The distance from Gorak Shep to base camp is roughly 3.5 kilometers, with mostly flat terrain and gentle inclines. Still, at this altitude, even a slight slope feels like a steep uphill climb.

Each step toward base camp felt like walking in slow motion. The lack of oxygen, biting cold, and sheer fatigue made this one of the hardest hikes I’ve ever done. But we pushed on.

Finally, after two grueling hours, we made it. I can’t put into words the joy and relief I felt when we arrived at Everest Base Camp.

Although the snow obscured the surrounding peaks and there was no dramatic view of Everest itself (as you can’t actually see the summit from base camp), the sense of achievement was overwhelming. A large group had gathered around the famous rock sign marking the site, and we had to wait our turn to snap a few quick photos in the freezing cold. The air was so frigid that standing still made my headache worse.

Despite everything, it was worth it.

We also spotted a mountain dog quietly watching over the crowd—calm, curious, and almost as if it was guarding us. It stayed nearby as we took photos, adding an unexpected charm to the experience.

We spent only about 10 minutes at Everest Base Camp, as the extreme cold and growing altitude symptoms made it difficult to stay any longer. Still, the experience of reaching this iconic milestone is something I’ll never forget—it was a moment of pure accomplishment.

Afterward, we made our way back to our homestay, which took around 2.5 hours of descent. By the time we arrived, Ruby wasn’t feeling well, and two other team members were also showing signs of fatigue and altitude sickness. The group was physically drained and struggling to push forward.

Because of this, we decided to skip the planned sunrise hike to Kala Patthar, which would have required us to wake up at 2:00 AM. Everyone agreed that rest was the priority. We needed to recharge and recover before beginning our descent the following day.

Next Stop: Pheriche – More Stories Coming Soon!

With love from the heart of the Himalayas,
Maria,sometimes,Niskie