Days 10–15 of my Everest Base Camp trek were full of breathtaking views, unexpected challenges, and unforgettable moments. Curious how the final stretch unfolded? Read my blog!

Disclaimer: All views expressed on this blog are my own based on my own experiences and do not represent of any entity with which I have been, are now or will be affiliated

May 18, 2025
Batangas, Philippines

Hike Dates: April 6–19
April 18: Flight from Lukla to Kathmandu
April 19: Rest day in Kathmandu
April 20: Short Trip to Bangkok

Nepal Travel Guide here
Stories of Himalayan adventure here

April 15(Tuesday) – Day 10: Trek from Gorakshep to Pheriche
Starting Elevation: 16942ft/5164m
Ending Elevation: 14341ft/4371m
Temperature: -5 to -10 degree Celsius
Hiking Time: 2.5 hours descent (at my own pace) to Lobuche
Hiking Time: 3 hours descent (at my own pace) to Pheriche

The Journey Back Begins: Gorak Shep to Lobuche

Today marked the start of our return trek as we made our way back toward our starting point. After a hearty breakfast, we began the descent to Pheriche village. While some trekkers choose to hike up to Kala Patthar before heading to Pheriche, we decided to skip that detour and head directly down.

The trail today was essentially a continuous downhill stretch. Thankfully, the gradient was mostly gentle, without any steep or difficult sections. Despite the relatively easy path, I was still exhausted from the previous day’s trek—my body was craving rest and a good shower more than anything else.

We moved at a slower pace, soaking in the serene surroundings. Throughout the descent, we could hear helicopters buzzing above—likely transporting trekkers who needed evacuation or were wrapping up their Everest Base Camp (EBC) journey.

We paused a few times along the way to admire the views and capture some photos. After around two hours of trekking, we arrived at Lobuche, home to the highest bakery on the route. It was the perfect spot to grab a snack and recharge before continuing to Pheriche.

Before we left Lobuche, we said goodbye to three of our teammates, including Ruby, who would be summiting Lobuche East Peak. Wishing them all the best on their climb! Raymond, on the other hand, opted for a horse-assisted descent. If you’re ever too tired to continue on foot, this is an option—though it comes at a cost of around $250 USD from one point to another. I was tempted to take the horse ride myself, but with the trek nearing its end, I decided to push through on foot.

Trek from Lobuche to Pheriche

Today, we began our journey from Lobuche to Pheriche. Our original Sherpa, Lhakpa, did not accompany us for this leg of the trek because he accompanied my other teammates for Lobuche summit peak and was replaced by Pare—a porter/guide carrying a massive duffle bag yet still trekking with remarkable strength and endurance. I continue to be in awe of the porters and Sherpas who support trekkers through this demanding journey. Their resilience is nothing short of inspiring.

The trail to Pheriche is relatively gentle, with mostly flat terrain and a few light descents. Along the way, we crossed several small rivers, which offered perfect moments to pause and appreciate the stunning scenery. The air was crisp and refreshing, and the warm sun on our faces made the trek more enjoyable, even as fatigue set in.

Despite the mostly easy terrain, the walk to Pheriche felt long and tiring. At one point, I caught myself wondering if hiring a 4×4 vehicle was even possible in this part of the trail—I was that exhausted!

After more than two hours of steady trekking, we finally arrived in Pheriche. Nestled in a peaceful valley surrounded by towering peaks, Pheriche is a charming village and one of my favorites along the route. Yaks could be seen grazing on farmland, and the village has a laid-back, welcoming feel. There are also several cafés to choose from, making it a great place to rest and recharge.

Pumori Lodge

We stayed at Pumori Lodge, which offered basic but comfortable accommodations, similar to the other teahouses along the trek. Facilities included shared toilets, simple bedding, and an outdoor sink for brushing your teeth. Hot showers are available for an additional fee—around 400 PHP or 800 NPR—though I chose to skip it and wait until we reach Namche.

One important note: there are no charging ports available at the lodge, so it’s best to bring a fully charged power bank to keep your devices running.

If you have remaining Wi-Fi data (like the ones used in Lobuche), it will still work here in Pheriche, which is convenient if you want to connect briefly.

Cafe Altitude Bakery

After a short rest, we ventured out to explore the village and visited Altitude Bakery, a cozy café about a 10-minute walk from our lodge. It was such a treat to find a café at this altitude! I ordered a café latte and a delicious coconut biscuit that reminded me of macaroons. The desserts and coffee were surprisingly good, and the café even accepts card payments—with an additional 10% fee. Wi-Fi is also available here, so you can easily connect with your loved ones at no extra cost

As we made our way back to the teahouse just before dinner, snow began to fall heavily, adding a magical end to our afternoon outing.

We ended the day with a warm meal, bundled up for the cold night ahead. Despite the chill, it was comforting to know we were gradually making our way back down.

April 16(Wednesday) – Day 11: Trek from Pheriche to Namche
Starting Elevation: 14341ft/4371m
Ending Elevation: 11,290 ft/3440m
Temperature: -5 to 0 degree Celsius
Hiking Time: 11 hours descent (at my own pace)

We resumed our journey early in the morning, leaving Pheriche at around 7 AM and heading toward Namche Bazaar. This leg of the trek took us through a diverse range of landscapes—from rugged high-altitude terrain to lush green forests. While the trail is steep and physically demanding in some sections, it’s well-maintained and clearly marked. Since this route overlaps with part of our ascent, I’ll just share the highlights from the day.

By 9 AM, we arrived at Everest View Lodge, where we took a short break to enjoy a warm cup of ginger lemon tea. From there, we continued our trek, and after about 1.5 hours, we reached Tengboche Monastery. The last time we passed through, it was raining and I couldn’t get a clear photo, so I was glad to take one this time. We even came across a small herd of buffaloes near the area—an unexpected but interesting sight!

Roughly an hour after leaving Tengboche, we stopped for lunch at Ever Green Lodge and Restaurant. Once refueled, we pressed on, navigating a series of mixed ascents and descents toward Namche. This stretch felt particularly long and tiring, moving from one village to the next with very few flat sections. I found myself needing to slow down significantly to keep going.

One of the biggest highlights of the day was spotting a lophophorus—also known as the Himalayan monal, Nepal’s national bird. Its vibrant plumage was absolutely stunning. I managed to get a video of it! It reminded me of “Kevin,” the colorful bird from Disney-Pixar’s Up, and it completely lifted my spirits.

After nearly 11 hours of trekking through various elevations, we finally arrived in Namche Bazaar. I took a much-needed warm shower (in the shared bathroom) and later had a well-deserved dinner—yes, a burger!

Later that evening, I tried to exchange my remaining Nepalese Rupees (NPR) into US Dollars (USD) to prepare for tipping our Sherpas and porters with the standard $150. However, the money changers in Namche only buy USD and do not sell it. So I spoke with Nitesh, our main Sherpa, and he kindly agreed to accept the equivalent amount in NPR instead.

Before calling it a night, we stopped by a local Sherpa store to pick up some souvenirs. I bought a fridge magnet and a few powdered energy drinks. We then returned to the homestay to charge our phones and power banks. Given how exhausted we were, we skipped drinks for the night and decided to save the celebration for when we reached Lukla.

April 17(Thursday) – Day 12: Trek from Namche to Lukla
Starting Elevation: 11,290 ft/3440m
Ending Elevation: 9383ft/2,860m
Temperature: 0 to 7 degree Celsius
Hiking Time: 10 hours (my own pace)

Final Descent: Namche to Lukla

After breakfast around 7:30 AM, we began our final trek back to Lukla, descending through familiar villages like Monjo, suspension bridges and several others scattered along the hillsides and valleys of the lower Himalayas.

The trail back to Lukla felt familiar and comforting. Along the way and not only during descent, we saw many of the same trekkers we had met earlier at teahouses and lodges. It was nice to exchange smiles and short conversations—it felt like a quiet reunion after days on the trail.

We passed rivers, peaceful villages, and large mani boulders carved with Tibetan prayers. The sound of buffalo and donkey bells followed us through the hills, while we crossed paths with new trekkers just starting their journey. We also noticed fewer yaks now, replaced mostly by buffaloes and horses as we moved to lower elevations.

Crossing the double suspension bridges again was a highlight. They swayed gently over the deep valley, just as we remembered. After reaching the valley floor, the trail began to climb again—a steady uphill that caught us by surprise.

I slipped a couple of times on the rocky path and was reminded of how steep this section had been during our climb to Namche. It made me realize just how far we’d come and how strong we had become through the ups and downs of the trek.

Phakding to Lukla

We reached Phakding in about four hours, where we had stayed on our first night after leaving Lukla. Although we didn’t stop long, it served as a good spot for a lunch break before the final leg of the journey. We also had to do the formation again, me being in the front because I was getting slower.

The last stretch from Phakding to Lukla was about 10 kilometers and took just over three hours. I hadn’t realized just how much elevation we had lost at the beginning until we had to gain it all back. This part of the trail consisted mostly of stone staircases and gradually sloping rock paths, constantly climbing with each bend—far more challenging than I remembered. It is One of the most unexpected challenges of descending from the Himalayas is that the final stretch into Lukla is actually uphill—a tough reminder that the journey isn’t over until it truly ends. The last 3 kilometers are especially steep, making this final push feel surprisingly strenuous.

Eventually, we climbed the final stone staircase into Lukla, entering the village along its main trail paved with flat stone slabs. We passed the unmanned tourist checkpoint, officially marking the end of our incredible Himalayan journey.

The ascent was incredibly challenging, and honestly, I didn’t even manage to capture any videos during this stretch. When I finally caught sight of Lukla village, a wave of relief washed over me. However, it had started to rain by then, especially after a quick stop at the Sherpa Cafe in Chhepulung. I would’ve liked to explore the local shops, but the weather and the intermittent rain made it difficult, not to mention how exhausted I was.

Hotel The Nest Lukla

We finally arrived at our next teahouse in Lukla around 6:00 pm, soaked from the rain, and got ready for dinner. The hotel had its own private toilet and a hot shower, so I was able to clean up, though the water flow was a bit slow. It also had charging ports, comfortable pillows, a cozy bed, and a comforter—everything we needed for a restful night as our last one in the Everest region.

The highlight of the evening was celebrating with the team, and the teahouse served meat, so I ordered grilled chicken, which took almost two hours to prepare. To mark the occasion, we all shared a drink together, including the sherpas and porters. I had just one glass of Sherpa draft beer, but it was enough to get me drunk—something I never expected. I’m not usually someone who drinks, but that night, I found myself laughing uncontrollably at a heartwarming love story. It felt surreal to be so high up in the mountains, sharing such a special moment with the team. It was also the perfect time to express our gratitude to the porters and sherpas for their unwavering support. We wouldn’t have made it without them.

Eventually, I went back to my room to sleep off the alcohol, knowing that we had an early morning ahead with our flight back to Ramecchap. We were all hoping for better weather tomorrow.

April 18 (Friday) – Day 13: Flight from Lukla to Ramechhap and Drive Back to Kathmandu
Starting Elevation: 9383ft/2,860m
Ending Elevation: 4600ft/1400m
Temperature: 16 to 22 degree Celsius
Travel Time: Approx. 30-minute flight + 4-6 hours land travel to Kathmandu

This day was bittersweet—it marked the end of what I can truly call the most incredible adventure of my life. It felt surreal that we were already wrapping up the trek. I spent the morning walking around Lukla, withdrawing some cash from the ATM, and wishing I had more time to explore a few local cafés. Still, it was a beautiful, peaceful morning to soak it all in.

After enjoying my usual American breakfast—crispy potatoes, sunny side-up eggs, buttered bread, and a cup of Americano—we packed up our bags and waited to be called for boarding. We also reunited with three members of our team, two of whom had just successfully summited Lobuche Peak. Their stamina and determination were incredible.

We arrived at Lukla airport by 10:30 am—it was just a short walk from our teahouse. Before heading in, we took a moment to say our goodbyes to our sherpas and porters, who had been an incredible part of our journey. Fortunately, there were no flight delays that day. While waiting to board, we even had a lighthearted moment—my teammate Godfrey helped me fix my contact lens, which I later discovered had been hilariously caught on video while reviewing footage for this blog.

Following security checks and baggage weighing, we finally boarded around 1:00 pm and took off shortly after. The flight to Ramechhap was smooth, landing around 1:30 pm. From there, we began our road journey back to Kathmandu, filled with mixed emotions—grateful for the experience, but sad to say goodbye.

Ramechhap and Drive Back to Kathmandu

By the time we landed in Ramechhap, we were already starving—and the sudden change in weather was quite a shock. After spending days in the chilly Himalayas, the heat felt intense. I even had a dry cough, chapped lips, and red cheeks—honestly, I looked like Heidi, the girl of the Alps from the anime!

Our lead guide, Nitesh, informed us to wait for our van. When it arrived, we loaded our bags and got ready for the journey back to Kathmandu. Unfortunately, the van didn’t have air conditioning, so we had to keep the windows open. That would’ve been fine, except for the dust, and the driver’s companion kept spitting out the window—which made us extra cautious every time the wind blew in our direction.

Around 3:30 pm, we stopped at a roadside cafeteria where I had chicken fried rice and a soda for just 250 NPR (about 150 PHP). Compared to the prices in the Himalayas, it felt unbelievably cheap. After lunch, we had to wait another 30 minutes for the van to finish charging before we could hit the road again.

The ride was rough—literally. The roads were bumpy, and the local driving style was wild. Speeding through narrow mountain roads felt like watching a real-life version of Gran Turismo. At one point, I had to close my eyes just to get through it!

Finally, at around 7:00 pm, we arrived at Hotel Kailash Kutee in Kathmandu, checked in, got our luggage, and took much-needed showers. Later that evening, we planned to have dinner as a group. I got a bit lost looking for Lumbini Tandoor Fastfood and Naan House—even though it was supposed to be just a 10-minute walk from the hotel. It turns out there might be multiple branches and the one on Google Maps wasn’t up to date. Still, I made it by 9:00 pm and enjoyed some delicious tikka masala for about 500 NPR (roughly 250 PHP).

It was a great way to end the day—sharing a meal with the team and sampling Indian cuisine in Nepal. While some of them stayed out for drinks, I headed back to the hotel to rest. After everything, I was completely exhausted.

April 19 (Saturday) – Day 14: Rest and Team Dinner at Kathmandu
Starting Elevation: 4600ft/1400m
Temperature: 20 to 26 degree Celsius

After having breakfast with the team, we were informed that we had to change rooms with a master bed, not particularly sure what was the reason again but the other members of the team changed hotel. We stayed in the same hotel but with different room so we just needed to carry our luggages again to other hotels.

The other team members went to do the city tour and since I already did this, I decided to buy souvenirs in Thamel and ate.

Pumpernickel Bakery

This cozy café is just a short walk from our hotel in Thamel and features a second floor with a nice selection of breads and coffee. I decided to try their yak cheese bagel, which came with tomatoes and lettuce, along with an iced Americano. The yak cheese had a strong, blue cheese-like flavor—definitely an acquired taste. It wasn’t my favorite, but it wasn’t bad either, and I figured I had to try it at least once since yak is native to the Himalayas.

After breakfast and a much-needed caffeine fix, I went shopping for EBC clothes and some souvenirs and headed back to the hotel to rest.

Gokarna House Restaurant and Bar

For our team dinner, we walked about 15–20 minutes from the hotel to Gokarna House Restaurant and Bar. The place offered a truly immersive Nepalese dining experience, complete with traditional music, dance performances, and cultural rituals. One of the highlights was witnessing a “yak dance” performance—similar to a dragon dance—where the dancers received money through the mouth of the yak costume, a gesture of good fortune.

As we entered, we were welcomed with a tika placed on our foreheads, a traditional Nepalese symbol of hospitality. We enjoyed a hearty meal featuring dal bhat, momos the classic Nepali dish, and raksi, a local rice wine that’s commonly served during celebrations.

It was a memorable evening of culture, laughter, and good food—made even more special as we began saying our goodbyes to some teammates who were flying back to the Philippines. Big thanks to our organizers for making the night so special!

April 20 (Sunday) – Day 15: Last Day in Kathmandu and Flight to Bangkok

Temperature: 26 to 35°C

It’s time to head home. My time in Nepal has been unforgettable, and the Himalayan adventure was truly an experience of a lifetime. I’ll be spending a day in Bangkok before flying back to the Philippines.

After checking out, we were each given a khata—a yellow scarf—as a traditional gesture of good luck and farewell in Nepal. John, my teammate, and I were traveling together to Bangkok.

At the airport, there was a crowd of people saying goodbye to their loved ones, much like in the Philippines. We queued up for security checks and then lined up to check in our bags and get our boarding passes. There was another security check in the boarding area, and one more before immigration—so a total of three security checks. Immigration took a while due to all these procedures. Once we cleared everything, we would want to eat or drink coffee but food options were limited, fortunately, we didn’t have to wait long—only about an hour—before boarding the bus to our flight to Bangkok.

This journey has been a dream realized, a chapter in my life that I’ll carry with me forever. As I write these words, I’m still filled with awe and gratitude for the experience. Nepal, with its stunning landscapes and the mighty Himalayas, has captured a special place in my heart. It’s not just an adventure—it’s a transformative experience that will echo in my soul for years to come. I’m thankful for every moment, every challenge, and every breathtaking view. This trip has reminded me of the magic that comes with stepping out of your comfort zone. Here’s to more journeys, more discoveries, and more memories to be made in the future!

Love,
Maria, sometimes, Niskie