From scenic mountains to vibrant towns and delicious local flavors, Negros Occidental was full of surprises at every turn. Curious how I explored it all? Read my blog!

Disclaimer: All views expressed on this blog are my own based on my own experiences and do not represent of any entity with which I have been, are now or will be affiliated

June 24, 2022
Batangas, Philippines

Date of Trip: June 17-19

My friends’ country homes are like open-air museums, and I’m free to visit them whenever I choose.. Because of this, you gain more knowledge about them in general, in addition to gaining insight into their history. I am happy that we decided to make the trip because several of my friends who live in the area would show us around. They are familiar with the most exciting places to go. Because of the wonderful food, company, drinks, natural scenery, and interesting history of the region, my trip to Negros Occidental was an unforgettable experience.

The Philippines’ Western Visayas region includes the province of Negros Occidental. Famous for its cansi and chicken inasal (roast chicken on a skewer), as well as its thriving sugar industry. The region’s massive sugar cane plantation has earned it the nickname “sugar bowl of the Philippines.” Mount Kanlaon, one of the country’s active volcanoes, is located there as well. Bacolod serves as the capital of the Negros Occidental province.

Restrictions

Negros Occidental is accepting leisure travelers provided that they follow the standard health protocol. No medical certificates, S-pass, RT-PCR test or vaccination card to be presented to some establishments or checkpoints. But I suggest to always bring your vaccination card and for your protection, have yourself vaccinated.

Getting Around Negros Occidental

We flew from Manila to Silay airport. It took us 45 minutes to get to Silay Airport.

We went on a road trip in Negros Occidental via private car – from Bacolod, Talisay, Silay and Don Salvador Benedicto. I was with friends – Toby, Makis, Paul and Alvin.

If you go on commute, the only major bus operator in Negros is Ceres Liner.

Budget

My budget for this trip is Php6,000-00 inclusive of my flight expenses which cost Php3,000-00.

Bring cash all the time, most establishments only accept cash. ATMs are mostly everywhere in Negros

Accommodation

We stayed in Sukro hotel. It is a budget hotel with 4 floors. I actually liked our room, it’s spacious and clean. Also, it only cost us Php1,500 per night but my friend paid for our stay so I can’t complain too much haha.

Language

Negrenses are the locals who live in Negros Occidental. They speak Ilonggo (native tongue), Tagalog and English.

Day 1 June 17

It was already late lunch when we arrived in Bacolod, the capital city of Negros Occidental. Bacolod is known as the City of Smiles, the history of this tag name was when in April 22, 1980, the MV Don Juan, a luxury liner on its way back to Bacolod City from Manila, collided with an oil tanker, MT Tacloban, off Tablas Strait in Mindoro, leaving 176 dead and several others missing. They then decided to create Masskara festival as a defiance to adversity.

MassKara Festival is a Mardi Gras-like festival and a spectacularly vivid mix of dance, color and music that is celebrated every October. Bacolod is also known as the Land of Sweet People, and for its culinary heritage – inasal, cansi and sweet dessert treats!

Masskara Chicken Inasal
BS Aquino Dr, Bacolod, 6100 Negros Occidental
Php500-1,000/5 pax

Our first visit, of course, was inasal (roasted chicken skewers). I like everything they provided, including the guts, chicken skin, and chicken breasts. I also liked how there were chicken oil condiments all over the place; it contributed to the flavor. I enjoy their inasal because it is flavorful, smoky, reasonably priced, and overflowing with softness. Strongly recommended!

Felicia’s Pastry Shop
Php150-300

Unfortunately, our next destination was a pastry shop, and I did not enjoy any of their desserts because I often avoid sweets. The cakes weren’t terrible, but they weren’t my favorite, either.

Don Salvador Benedicto (DSB)

Don Salvador Benedicto (DSB), known as the summer capital of Negros Occidental, was the next stop on our journey. We left Bacolod and arrived in DSB 1 hour and 30 minutes later; the sight of Mt. Kanlaon on the way was breathtaking. It provided a breathtaking vista of the surrounding mountains and forest.

Kusinata
Don Salvador Benedicto, Negros Occidental
Php200-Php1,000

We went out to have coffee and eat Kusinata specialties. The venue is run by men and women from the Ata tribe, who are helped by volunteer chefs and workers who support indigenous people. It also has a stunning Malatan-og Falls Viewing Deck. I really like these kinds of places. I liked the food because it was a mix of different cuisines. They also have a number of healthy options. My favorite is budbud with tablea (chocolate). It’s a sticky rice that you pour hot chocolate over to taste. Even though the ginger was apparent in the rice cake, I still liked it. It’s one for the books!

Gina’s Seafood Restaurant
San Juan St, 6100 Bacolod
Php500-1,000/5pax

We went back to Bacolod for another food trip after our delicious snack in DSB. This time, it’s for seafood! Yay! What I love about Bacolod is that there are many different kinds of food to choose from, the prices are fair, and the food tastes great! You can pick up whatever seafood you want to eat, and they will cook it for you.

Esquinita Bar and Cafe
Narra Avenue 6100 Bacolod City, Philippines
Php500-1,500

After changing, we headed to Esqunita, a popular bar in Bacolod noted for its excellent cocktail selection. I appreciated the live music and the outside setting. They had a nice selection of cocktails, and I went with the frozen lychee mojito because it sounded both fruity and minty. On the downside, I made the mistake of drinking beer and rum thereafter. If you want to avoid a Php500-00 fine for vomiting in this pub, you’d better do it discreetly. That night was so wild I almost passed out.

Day 2 – June 18

Cafe Bob’s
21st Lacson Street Bacolod
Php500-Php1,000

In Bacolod, we had breakfast at Cafe Bob’s. A wide variety of baked goods are available. Their grilled ensaymada (brioche bread) topped with magnificent ham was delicious. It baked up nice and crispy. The bun is soft and buttery, and the sugar icing is sweet without being overwhelming. Ham is a great addition to this dish. Yummy right down to the last bite!

Silay,Negros Occidental

The province of Silay is only 30 minutes away from Bacolod, and it has been called the Paris of Negros Occidental due to the prevalence of European-style architecture there. European colonial architecture is substantially preserved in this cultural and ecotourism hub.

Balay Negrense

Also known as Victor Fernandez Gaston Ancestral House is a museum in Silay City, Negros Occidental. showcasing the lifestyle of a late 19th-century Negrense sugar baron. It is the first museum to be established in the province of Negros Occidental.

Bernardino Jalandoni Museum

also known as the Pink House, is located right along the main road in Silay’s heritage district. It was built in 1908, it was really rich in history and everything from the house came from Germany. I learned a lot.

Melken’s Seafood Restaurant
Brgy. Balaring, Silay City, Negros Occidental 6116 Silay
Php500-1,000

We ate at a seashore floating restaurant for lunch. It was quite calming because you could smell and feel the sea breeze. It’s a unique dining experience, but I’m not a fan of the food served – sisig, sinigang, and deep fried pig. It’s rather bland for me. Nonetheless, I was hungry, so I just ate. Not my favorite Negros seafood restaurant.

Manokan Country
Lion’s Park Grill House
Php500-Php1,000

A lengthy row of food stands selling Bacolod’s famous chicken inasal. It was at Lion’s Park Grill House that we finally found something to our liking. Chicken inasal, chicken skin, chicken intestines, and more barbeque skewers were on the menu. Truly, I preferred Masskara to Lion’s Park. Although, you should still check out Manokan Country. You may end up smelling like roasted chicken for a while, but it’s totally worth it.

Tippy’s Bistro
Php500-Php1,000

Of course, once we were cleaned up and ready to go, we went out for more drinks. We went to a millennial-oriented bar this time. Huge mugs of locally brewed, specialty beer were available at this resto-pub. My buddy was immediately intoxicated after drinking that beer, and I have no idea what they put in it. hahaha

Day 3 – June 19

When I woke up, I had the worst stomachache and bruised legs from a fall I had taken while visiting DSB. I assumed it was only a scrape, but it turned out to be a really serious tumble. I also learned that my friend was unable to finish the tour on the last day owing to hyperacidity; he was unable to stand up. I don’t think the booze played a role in this, but rather the internal organs we ate. hahaha!

I was hurt really badly, but I had to push through and finish this trip. Since my return to Negros is uncertain, I decided to make the most of my time here.

Eron’s Cansi House
Php200-500

Cansi in Bacolod was one of the nicest meals I’ve ever had. Cansi is a beef shank soup popular in the Ilonggo and Negrense cuisines. You can think of it as a cross between sinigang and bulalo, minus the vegetables. This extraordinary meal kept running through my head. The beef was incredibly delicate and cooked to perfection thanks to the long cooking method, and the soup had sour flavor notes similar to sinigang but more nuanced thanks to the inclusion of batwan, a fruit endemic to the Western Visayas and used as a souring agent in recipes. The flavor is out of this world! I would definitely order more cansi the next time I’m in Bacolod because it was so delicious. Even though it gave me a stomachache, I still enjoyed this meal.

Calea Pastries and Cake
Balay Quince, Bacolod, Negros Occidental
Php150-300/slice

Bacolod, the Philippines, is sometimes referred to as the “sugar bowl” because of the abundance of sweets available there. Unlike my siblings, I have never had a sweet tooth. When I do eat cake, it’s usually only a small bite. Even though I’ve sampled many of Manila’s supposedly greatest cakes, I can never eat more than a nibble at a time. However, Calea’s chocolate mud pie is on another level entirely. Every slice tastes like a little piece of heaven, and I could eat an entire cake every single day. It’s a chocolate ice cream cake with a crunchy almond topping. The final day of our culinary tour was so fantastic that I didn’t want to leave Negros quite yet. The best, in my opinion, has been reserved for last.

The Ruins
Talisay City, Negros Occidental
Built – 1920’s. Burnt – 1942
Php165-200

The Ruins is known as the Taj Mahal of Negros. The Ruins Mansion is the remains of an ancestral home built in 1920 by a wealthy sugar baron named Don Mariano Ledesma Lacson. He constructed this mansion as a testament of his love for his Portuguese wife, Cora after she passed away in 1911.

It is situated in the border of Talisay and Bacolod. It was later set aflame in 1942 by Filipino guerilla fighters employed by the United States Armed Forces during the Second World War to prevent its use as a military office by Japanese invaders. It was burned for 3 days until only its current cement frame was left standing. It’s one of the architectural wonders in the Philippines.

It is really indeed beautiful, it was huge, rich in history and romantic. Many events are held here so make sure to visit their FB page to check if they are open during the time of your visit. It’s a must visit in Negros Occidental, the trip will never be complete without seeing this mansion.

BongBong’s Piaya and Barquillos
Php200-Php1,000

Pasalubong, or souvenirs and delicacies, are commonly given to loved ones as a token of affection in the Philippines. Bongbong’s is one of Bacolod’s most well-known souvenir stores. Due to lack of time, I just purchased one box of piaya for my brother and our extended Batangas family, which includes our pets. Famous foods from the Occidental Negros can be found here.

Piaya– a muscovado-filled unleavened flatbread. It is served delicious while hot.
Biscocho – crunchy bread, topped with butter and sugar
Butterscotch – Sumptuous buttery bars sprinkled with native oven-roasted cashews
Barquillos – thin rolled cookies of Spanish origin. It is made by pouring thin butter onto a wafer iron (barquillera) which is rolled into a tubular shape, enhancing its crunchiness.

Mimi’s Cafe and Restaurant
Php200-500
25th Corner Lacson St., Brgy. 1, Bacolod CIty

This eatery came highly recommended by a friend; they serve half moon and another popular Bacolod specialty, Napoleones I was intended to buy them for my brother, but they should be consumed within two days. I was going to meet him after the trip in a week, so I handed these to colleagues.

Half moon – It literally looked like a half moon, it is fluffy sponge cake with yema- flavored richness.
Napoleones – flaky, melt-in-your-mouth filled with custard filling and sugar glazing on top.

At 11 o’clock that night, we returned to Manila. It was a memorable and exhausting adventure! I had no idea I could eat that much when traveling! Anyone with a sweet craving, especially my brothers, would really adore Negros.

Love,
Tooth Fairy, Sometimes, Niskie