Nepal isn’t just mountains – it’s bustling streets, sacred temples, and adventures that challenge both your legs and your spirit. Ready to explore? Read my guide!
Disclaimer: All views expressed on this blog are my own based on my own experiences and do not represent of any entity with which I have been, are now or will be affiliated.
May 11, 2025
Batangas, Philippines
Date of Nepal trip: April 03-20
Though this trip included a Himalayan expedition, this post focuses on the city scenes and cafe stops in Kathmandu and beyond. I’ve saved the Himalayan story for another post here
Nestled in a bowl-shaped valley along an ancient trade route between India and Tibet, Kathmandu, Nepal’s capital is a city rich in history, filled with medieval palaces and temples. As the largest metropolitan area in Nepal, it stands as the country’s hub for culture, art, education, healthcare, and economic activity.
When I told my friends I was heading to Nepal, the question I heard most often was whether I was going there to “find enlightenment.” I found it funny, because that was never the goal. I didn’t have any spiritual quest in mind—I just knew Nepal as the land of Everest, the world’s tallest mountain. Still, I played along and replied, “Yeah, sure, I’ll find my enlightenment.”
It started as a lighthearted joke that followed me right up until I landed. But once I arrived in Kathmandu, something shifted. There was a calmness in the air, a sense of peace I hadn’t expected. It felt as if my worries melted away the moment I stepped into the city.
That’s when I realized—I was going to love this place. I couldn’t wait to explore the rest of Nepal and see what it had in store for me.
Visa Requirements
To make your arrival smoother, apply for your tourist visa online before your trip. Follow the steps below:
✅ Step-by-Step: Online Visa Application
🔗 Apply here: Nepal Immigration Online Visa Application
⏰ Do this 5–10 days before your arrival in Kathmandu or you can also do this upon arrival at the airport.
📄 What You’ll Need to Fill In
Page 1: Basic Travel Info
- Entry Point: Tribhuvan International Airport
- Passport Issuing Country: Philippines
- Visa Type: Tourist Visa
Page 2: Personal Information
- Fill in your personal details.
- Upload:
- A scanned copy of your passport (.jpg)
- A passport-sized photo
Page 3: Visa Details
- Choose your length of stay:
- 15 days
- 30 days
- 90 days
- Purpose of Visit: Tourism
- Address in Nepal: Thamel District, Kathmandu or your address in Nepal
- Contact Number (Optional):
🖨️ Important Final Step:
- After submitting, print the confirmation slip or screenshot it and show it to the counter.
💵 Visa Payment Upon Arrival
Once you land in Kathmandu:
- Head straight to the visa payment booth.
- Show your printed slip or screenshot of the application form.
- Pay your visa fee based on your stay. For this trip, I opted for 30 days to stay well within the allowed time frame.
| Duration | Visa Fee |
|---|---|
| 15 Days | $30 USD |
| 30 Days | $50 USD |
| 90 Days | $100 USD |
Flight Details & Costs
For this trip, I booked my flights with Thai Airways, which included a layover in Bangkok.
🛫 Singapore → Kathmandu (via Bangkok)
📌 Note: There are direct flights from Singapore to Kathmandu, but none were available on my chosen travel date.
- Airline: Thai Airways
- Total Cost: SGD 395.70 (approx. PHP 16,987.03 as of May 7 exchange rate)
- Baggage Allowance (Economy Class):
- 2 checked bags (up to 23kg but when combined should not exceed to 30kg)
- 1 carry-on (up to 7kg)
- Tip: Always double-check baggage policies as they may vary by route or fare class. More info here.
🛬 Kathmandu → Bangkok
- Cost: PHP 15,176.19
- Same baggage allowance as above applies
🛬 Bangkok → Manila
Same baggage allowance as above applies
Cost: PHP 14,712.58
Tribhuvan International Airport
Kathmandu’s airport is relatively small, with limited food options, and it can get crowded due to its size. The queue at Immigration can take some time, so be prepared for a bit of a wait. I found it similar to the Manila domestic airport in the Philippines in terms of its vibe.
When you arrive by plane, you’ll be transported by bus from the aircraft to the main terminal. After collecting your luggage, getting your SIM card, and clearing Immigration, I was greeted by my guide. As a warm welcome, I was given a Mala—a traditional flower garland. In Nepal, these garlands are commonly used for religious ceremonies, festivals, and to welcome guests. They’re often made from seasonal flowers, with marigolds being particularly popular due to their vibrant color and ease of cultivation.
Things to Note:
1. All visitors entering or leaving the Philippines must register at the eTravel website at least 72 hours before their arrival time. When it’s done, guests will get a QR code that they need to either scan or take a picture of and show when they get to the country.
2. Be prepared for multiple security checks upon arrival in Kathmandu – There are three separate security screening points, which can result in long queues, so patience is key.
3. Keep your checked baggage locked – Due to the extended wait times at security and immigration, your checked bags may be removed from the conveyor belt and placed nearby to clear space. Make sure they are securely locked to avoid any issues.
Travel Insurance
For this journey—spanning Singapore, Thailand, Nepal, and the Philippines—I opted for Travel Master by Malayan Insurance, which cost PHP 2,620. What I appreciate about Malayan is that it covers hiking-related incidents that don’t involve technical equipment like rappelling. It even includes emergency helicopter medical evacuation. I booked this travel insurance using my Gcash account.
Currency – 1 Nepalese Rupee = 0.41 Philippine Peso
When traveling abroad, I always use my GCash Debit Card to withdraw cash because it provides a convenient way to access funds at ATMs in Nepal and doesn’t incur bank charges when used outside the Philippines—you’ll only need to pay the ATM withdrawal fees. This sets it apart from many other Philippine debit cards. That said, withdrawal fees can vary depending on the international bank. Based on my experience in Nepal, I was charged around 700 NPR (approximately 283 pesos) per transaction.
Power Socket – In Nepal, majority of power plugs is type A or 2 flat pins. However, in the mountains power plugs and sockets (outlets) can vary to the following: type C, type D and type M are used with 220V. Better to bring universal adapter all the time.
Language – Nepali but majority speaks English so it’s easy to get around and talk to locals.
Weather – Nepal experiences four distinct seasons: spring from March to May, summer from June to August, fall from September to November, and winter from December to February. I visited during spring.
Air Quality – One of the main challenges I faced in Nepal was the air quality. When I arrived, the air was noticeably hazy, and I found it helpful to cover my mouth to avoid irritation or getting sick. Kathmandu, the capital, is nestled in a valley surrounded by mountains, which causes air pollution to linger. Much of this comes from dust kicked up by the city’s numerous unpaved roads.
Time zone – Nepal is in the time zone of GMT +5:45, which makes it 2 hours and 15 minutes behind the Philippines (which is in GMT +8)
Internet Connectivity – I bought a physical SIM card from Ncell right outside the baggage claim area. It came with a 50GB data plan for 1,100 NPR (approximately PHP 449.78) and is valid for 28 days. Unfortunately, I couldn’t find any eSIM options for Nepal. Ncell worked well throughout my trip I even had signal in the mountains.
Note: To purchase a SIM card, you’ll need to present your passport and provide a 1×1 photo, which will be attached to the registration form. No need to worry, the staff are friendly and helpful, and they’ll assist you throughout the process if needed.
Roads – The roads in Thamel, Kathmandu’s popular tourist area, are quite narrow. However, I was impressed by how skillfully cars manage to navigate through these tight spaces.
Cars – Right hand drive car.
Transportation – There are no Uber or Grab services available, but locals use ride-hailing apps like Pathao and InDrive. I didn’t get a chance to try them myself, as my Airbnb host had already arranged transportation for me. Besides, I spent most of my time in the mountains, and within Thamel, most places are easily accessible on foot.
Tipping – While tipping is not mandatory in Nepal, it is customary, and locals greatly appreciate the gesture.
Safety- As a solo traveler, I can confidently say that Thamel in Kathmandu, where I stayed during my trip to Nepal, felt very safe. I never encountered any rude behavior on the contrary, the locals were consistently warm and welcoming. I even walked around at night and always felt secure. Overall, it was a truly positive experience. That said, it’s still important to always stay cautious and aware while traveling.
Accommodation – I stayed at an Airbnb in Thamel called Swarga for 4,631.30PHP for 2 nights, a family-owned boutique hotel with a charming, traditional Nepali rustic vibe, complete with prayer flags at the entrance. I absolutely loved my room—it was clean, spacious, and the bathroom was excellent. They also have a café downstairs, and the staff were incredibly accommodating. I highly recommend this place to anyone visiting Kathmandu, as it’s within walking distance of various establishments and cafés. Plus, it’s just a 20-minute drive from the airport. Please note that there is no elevator or lift, but the staff is happy to assist with carrying your luggage. If you’re going on a hike after checking out, you can also leave your luggage with them.
You can find more about the place here
April 03 (Thursday)
Day2
I left my accommodation in Aljunied early in the morning for my flight to Nepal and arrived at Changi Airport just in time. What I absolutely love about Changi is its efficiency. You can comfortably arrive just an hour before your boarding time, as everything is streamlined online—baggage drop, security checks, and even immigration. Instead of going through immigration, you simply scan your boarding pass and passport. The security check is conveniently located at the boarding gate. I truly love it! Changi is, without a doubt, the best airport I’ve ever experienced.
There were no flight delays, and I arrived in Bangkok on time, with just an hour’s wait before my flight to Nepal. Since this was a connecting flight with Thai Airways, I didn’t need to pick up my baggage, as it stayed with the same airline and airport. The airline took care of everything for me. All I had to do was transfer to a different boarding gate—no need to go through another immigration process.
I arrived in Kathmandu after a smooth 4.5-hour flight with no delays. Once at the airport, I cleared immigration, obtained my Visa on Arrival, went through security checks, collected my baggage, and bought a SIM card. Afterward, my guide picked me up and dropped me off at my hotel.
Food Tour via Airbnb experience
2,008.44PHP
More in this link
After settling in at my hotel, I joined a food tour at 5:00 pm. I met my guide, Fahid, and got to sample a wide variety of snacks. Food tours are always such a fun experience for me whenever I visit a new country, as they give me a deeper understanding of the local culture. Plus, I wouldn’t have discovered these kind of food or places without a local guide. I also loved that I was the only one on the tour, which made it feel more like exploring with a friend. I highly recommend this tour to anyone interested in Nepali cuisine.
Here are the food I tried, listed according to the photo slide from right to left:
1. Egg bara – lentil pancake
2. Yomari – the rice flour dessert
3. Papdi chat – chips with sweet and spicy sauce
4. Samosa with sweet spicy sauce (I only have video)
5. Jalebi – brown hot sweet
6. Buff momos – nepali style (I only have video)
7. Buff sekuwa -buffalo skewers
8. Fokso – goat lungs
9. Lassi – yoghurt and milk drink (not in the photo, I only have video)
April 04 (Friday)
Day3
Today, I decided to take a private tour of 7 UNESCO World Heritage Sites through Klook, which cost about 6,490.3 PHP, not including entrance fees. The entrance fees typically range from 200 to 500PHP. You can find more information about the tour here.
My guide, Hemant, picked me up from my hotel for the tour. I really appreciated the private setting, as it gave me the flexibility to control my schedule. The experience was also fully customizable—if I wasn’t interested in a particular site, I could skip it, and Hemant was great at suggesting other places to check out and local dishes to try.
Kathmandu Durbar Square
We made a brief stop at Kathmandu Durbar Square. Also known as Basantapur Durbar or Hanuman Dhoka, this historic square is located in the heart of Kathmandu’s city center. The square never fails to impress first-time visitors with its intricate wood carvings and deep cultural history. A true testament to Nepal’s rich heritage, Kathmandu Durbar Square beautifully blends architectural elegance with the craftsmanship and traditions of the past.
Freak Street Snowman Cafe
50-100PHP
A short walk from Durbar Square, we headed to the Snowman Café on Freak Street, where we enjoyed freshly brewed coffee from their coffee machine. As it was still morning, only coffee was available—no bread or desserts.
My guide mentioned that the Snowman Café is the pioneering café on Freak Street, having been in operation for nearly 60 years. Freak Street itself emerged in the 1960s, when Nepal was still a mysterious, undiscovered gem for international travelers. Known locally as Jhochhen Tole, the street became popularly known as Freak Street because of its attraction to the hippie community. By the mid-60s, Nepal’s mystical charm had spread worldwide, drawing more tourists seeking freedom and adventure. However, by the 1970s, the hippie trail began to fade due to changes in both Nepal and the broader global landscape. Over time, the area lost the off-the-beaten-path allure that had initially drawn the hippie crowd.
With the rise of King Birendra, who aimed to clean up the streets and address issues like drug use, Freak Street’s character changed. Today, it stands as a vibrant reminder of Kathmandu’s cultural heritage. Tourists now flock to explore the remnants of its countercultural history while enjoying modern attractions, including eclectic shops, lively cafes, street art, and quirky guesthouses.
Swayamhunath Stupa
200PHP
After a short 20-minute drive from Freak Street, we arrived at our next destination. Swayambhu, which translates to “self-existent one,” offers a unique experience where you can turn the prayer wheel counterclockwise while making a wish. Nestled on a small hill in the northwest of Kathmandu Valley, Swayambhunath provides a peaceful retreat for reflection and prayer. Often called the “Monkey Temple” since the 1970s, a nickname given by visitors who found the original name challenging to pronounce, Swayambhu offers a stunning panoramic view of the valley, overlooking much of Kathmandu. This ancient stupa stands as a symbol of faith and unity, blending Hindu temples and deities within a Buddhist site. It is believed that the glory of Kathmandu Valley began from this very point.
Patan Durbar Square
200PHP
Patan, also known as ‘Lalitpur’ or the “City of Artisans,” is just 5 km southeast of Kathmandu and is renowned for housing the valley’s finest craftsmen who have preserved ancient metalworking techniques. The city has retained much of its old-world charm, with narrow streets, traditional brick houses, and a wealth of well-preserved Hindu temples, Buddhist monasteries (vihars), and monuments.
This captivating square is a beautiful blend of royal palaces, artistic courtyards, and elegant pagoda temples, showcasing Newari architecture at its peak during the Malla kings’ reign. Among its many courtyards, the restored Keshav Narayan Chowk now houses a bronze artifact museum. Sundari Chowk, with the sunken Tusha Hiti bath, is a stunning display of intricate wood carvings, and stone and metal sculptures.
Patan’s opulence is also reflected in landmarks like the magnificent Krishna Temple, with its 21 gilded spires, built in 1637, and the Manga Hiti, a sunken stone water spout located within the palace complex. The Krishna Temple, entirely constructed of stone, is considered the first example of Shikhara-style architecture in Nepal
Patan Museum
The Patan Museum is located within a courtyard in the northernmost building complex of the Durbar area. I’m always drawn to museums because they offer a unique perspective on history and knowledge that you can’t find anywhere else, and this museum is one of the best I’ve visited. I truly enjoyed my time there—it was an incredible experience. Outside the museum, I also noticed the intricate carvings on the stones. My guide explained that, in the past, laws were carved into stone because ink wasn’t available at that time. It was fascinating to learn how these ancient methods helped preserve important information for generations.
Caffeophilia
200-300PHP
I bought an apple pie here, but I didn’t enjoy it much. I also had a cup of coffee.
I tried Juju Dhau, a sweet, custard-like yogurt popular in the Kathmandu Valley and an essential part of celebrations. Known as the “king of yogurt” in Newari, it’s made from fresh buffalo milk, giving it a richer taste and texture than regular yogurt. Traditionally prepared in a clay pot called a kataura, the pot helps create a firmer texture, while spices like coconut and cardamom replace sugar to give it a mouth-watering sweetness.
It was a delightful experience to try this, and I absolutely loved the smooth, creamy texture of the yogurt.
Bhaktapur Durbar Square – I skipped Bhaktapur Durbar Square because, according to my guide, the entrance fee was higher and it was similar to the Durbar Square I had already visited. I briefly checked the site and then decided to move on.
Before heading to lunch, I spotted locals selling handmade beanies that I absolutely loved, priced at 300 PHP.
Ta Khaa Chhe Cafe Restaurant
200PHP
We had lunch at Ta Khaa Chhe Cafe Restaurant, where I tried Dal Bhat for 200 PHP. Dal Bhat, a staple dish in Nepal, is more than just a meal; it’s a reflection of Nepalese culture and tradition. This hearty dish, often eaten twice a day by locals, gives a taste of the country’s rich culinary heritage. The main components of Dal Bhat are lentil soup (dal) and rice (bhat), but it’s usually served with vegetable curry (tarkari), pickles (achar), and occasionally meat. The ingredients can vary depending on the region and season, but the goal is always to provide a balanced, nutritious meal.
As for this particular dish, I didn’t enjoy it as much because the chicken had too many bones. I’m a fan of chicken, especially the breast meat, so I didn’t find it as satisfying as I’d hoped.
Changunarayan Temple
200PHP
A short drive from the café took us to the Changu Narayan Temple, a UNESCO World Heritage Site located on a small hill to the east of Kathmandu, in the Bhaktapur district. This temple is one of the most ornate in the Kathmandu Valley, showcasing intricate wood and stone carvings. It features a two-tiered pagoda structure and was rebuilt in 1702 after the original temple was destroyed by fire. A stone tablet, known as Shilapatra, found near the temple, dates back to the 5th century, making it the oldest inscription discovered in Nepal. The main courtyard is home to several temples and statues of gods, all adorned with detailed carvings in stone from the 5th to 12th centuries, making it the highest concentration of ancient art in Nepal. I also had a priest blessing here where you can drop any donation.
Outside the temple, there were souvenir shops, and I spent some time exploring the street. It was an incredibly fun experience.
Boudhanath Stupa
The first stupa at Boudhanath was built after AD 600, following the Tibetan king Songtsen Gampo’s conversion to Buddhism. Known for its grace and perfect proportions, Boudhanath is unmatched in Nepal. From its whitewashed dome to the gilded tower adorned with the Buddha’s all-seeing eyes, the stupa is a stunning symbol of enlightenment. Legend has it that the king built it as penance for accidentally killing his father. The stupa’s design is highly symbolic: the plinth represents earth, the dome water, the tower fire, the spire air, and the umbrella at the top represents the void. The 13 levels of the spire symbolize the stages of reaching nirvana.
While I was there, I also visited a store selling Tibetan healing bowls. They gave me a unique experience, using the bowls on me like a form of massage therapy, and I could feel the vibrations from each one. Although I didn’t make a purchase, it was definitely worth experiencing and trying.
Pashupatinath Temple
Located on the banks of the sacred Bagmati River, this temple is the most revered Hindu site in Nepal. The main temple complex is exclusive to Hindus, with non-Hindus allowed to observe from the terraces on the east side of the river. In keeping with tradition and respect, leather items such as shoes, belts, and cameras are not permitted inside the temple complex and must be left outside. Photography is strictly prohibited.
Upon arriving, there were a lot of cows scattered (cows are Gods in Hindu) and I wondered if this was the place where they burn bodies. At Pashupatinath, bodies are cremated in a deeply spiritual ceremony, which includes prayers, lighting the pyre, and scattering the ashes into the Bagmati River. This ritual is believed to symbolize the liberation of the soul, allowing it to break free from the cycle of life and death and be reborn, in line with Hindu beliefs in reincarnation. The temple’s significance goes beyond cremation, as it is a major pilgrimage site, attracting devotees from all over Nepal and India.
It was quite hot in the afternoon, so I didn’t stay to watch the bodies being cremated. Instead, my guide explained the process to me. The deceased was covered in cloth by the river, and the family members were mourning nearby. My guide shared that public cremations are practiced because there is no longer any need to conceal the body. It’s seen as a natural part of life, and even wealthy Hindus partake in this ritual. He also told me that the male relatives of the deceased must shave their hair completely and wear a white robe for a year. During this period, they are not allowed to marry or date as part of their mourning rituals.
I went back to my hotel after the great experience and had pizza and pasta
Fire and Ice Pizzeria
500-1000PHP
I was craving pasta and pizza, so I visited this highly-rated place just a short walk from my Airbnb, and I absolutely loved everything I ordered. I had the Rompipalle pizza, topped with tomato sauce, mozzarella, and meat, which was fantastic. For pasta, I went with Al Fiume, made with spaghetti, fresh tomatoes, parsley, and king prawns—delicious! I also had a Coke to drink. Everything was amazing, and I highly recommend this place!
Tibet Book Store
I made a quick stop at a bookstore to buy a book, and I finally decided on It’s Okay Not to Look for the Meaning of Life. I’m really enjoying it so far, though I haven’t finished it yet. What’s fascinating is how deeply the value of peace of mind is woven into the culture in Nepal—even the books they sell focus on finding inner peace.
Himalayan Java Coffee
300-400PHP
I stopped by a coffee shop just across from the Italian restaurant and a few steps away from the bookstore to get my caffeine fix. They serve Himalayan coffee beans, and I really enjoyed my iced Americano and walnut brownie while reading the book I just bought.
April 05(Saturday)
Day4
Gaia Restaurant and Coffee Shop
300-500
I stopped by a coffee shop just a short walk from my Airbnb, hoping to try their dal bhat. However, since lunch is served after 11:00 am and I arrived around 10:00 am, I decided to have breakfast and coffee instead. I loved the café’s al fresco atmosphere, and the staff was really friendly. I went for the Gaia Set Breakfast, which came with two slices of brown toast, scrambled eggs with vegetables, and sausage stuffed inside. The brown toast was a highlight for me—it was my first time trying it, and it was both filling and delicious.
Yala Garden Cafe and Resto
500PHP
I made sure to try the authentic Nepali dish, dal bhat, again after not enjoying my first attempt. So, after breakfast and a stroll around Thamel, I stopped by Yala Café. I really appreciated how the staff took the time to explain the dish to me when I ordered, which made the experience much more enjoyable. The restaurant had a lovely vibe too—rustic and al fresco, making it the perfect spot for lunch.
In the afternoon, I will meet my Everest Base Camp team and also check in at the hotel the organizer has provided for us. I checked out at the Swarga hotel and the host was really kind to book the car for me because I was carrying 2 bags and it will take 20 min walk to get to my next hotel.
Hotel Kailash Kutee – This hotel was arranged by the organizer, Yabag Mountaineering. It’s suitable for short stays, and I was satisfied with it. The hotel has an elevator, the staff was friendly and accommodating, and since it was free, I have no complaints. The bathroom was clean and stocked with shampoo and body wash. It’s also conveniently located near restaurants and souvenir shops in the heart of Thamel. I shared a room with another person, but you can request a solo room from the organizer. For this trip, I chose to share since we were part of a team, but next time, I’ll likely book a solo room for additional cost.
K-Too Restaurant
500PHP
After checking into the hotel, I received my duffle bag and down jacket for the Himalayan adventure. In the evening, I met the team, and we walked to K-Too Restaurant, which was close by. There, we settled in and got ready for the next part of the journey.
Upon arriving at K-Too Restaurant, I paid the remaining balance to Miguel, our organizer for the Himalayan adventure. I ordered a medium-well steak, rice, and a Gorkha beer (Nepali beer). The beer was smooth and delicious. The steak came with fries, so I added extra rice and a Coke to my order. The steak was decent—while I didn’t expect much since it wasn’t a steakhouse, it was satisfying and filled me up. It was also great to finally meet my team for the expedition.
We had to go to bed early as the call time for the next day was at 12:00 am for the Himalayan adventure.
Want to know more about my Himalayan adventure? Check out the links below
Part 1: Hiking Overview and Expectations here
Part 2: Itinerary for the Everest Base Camp Trek from Day1-4 here
Part 3: Itinerary for the Everest Base Camp Trek from Day5-7 here
Part 4: Itinerary for the Everest Base Camp Trek from Day8-9 here
Part 5: Itinerary for the Everest Base Camp Trek from Day 10-15 here
Love,
Maria,sometimes,Niskie
Finding Maria 
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