Brunei surprised me with majestic mosques, rich culture, and a close encounter with the quirky proboscis monkeys. Curious how this tiny kingdom left a big impression? Read my blog!

Disclaimer: All views expressed on this blog are my own based on my own experiences and do not represent of any entity with which I have been, are now or will be affiliated

July 02, 2023
Batangas, Philippines

Date of Trip: June 27-29

If you had asked me why Brunei—out of all the Asian countries—I would have been at a loss for words. Cebu Pacific had the cheapest flights I’d ever seen, and along with my curiosity about why so few people were visiting one of the world’s wealthiest countries, I knew I had to go there. I tried to find travel vloggers who had visited Brunei, but they were few and far between because, as I had heard, the country is uninteresting and had little to offer tourists. Simply put, I know that Brunei is not boring.

On January 1, 1984, Brunei declared its independence from the United Kingdom and established its national identity as a Malay and Islamic monarchy. The area along the Brunei River became home to a band of brothers who had set out on a journey to find new territory. After one of the brothers, Awang Alak Betatar, converted to Islam and took the name Sultan Muhammad Shah, he became the first Sultan of Brunei.

Punishments such as stoning for adultery and amputation for theft were made legal in Brunei in 2014, making it the first SouthEast Asian country to enact strict Islamic Sharia law. In 2019, it fully implemented a law that calls for the death penalty for adultery and homosexual intercourse under specific conditions.

Everything I had heard about Brunei prior to my visit was completely false. I found it to be peaceful, tidy, and warmly inviting. Stores close early, so there’s little to do after 10 p.m., yet this is the only country where the immigration officer was cheerful at 1 a.m. Even while I enjoy a good party, I won’t ruin my trip to this stunning country by binge drinking and going to nightclubs every night (Brunei is an Islamic country and alcohol is prohibited).

Visa Requirements

Philippine passport holders could stay up to 14 days “visa free” in Brunei. But before traveling to Brunei, make sure that your passport is valid for at least 6 months.

Fare – PHP 2,922.27 return tickets to Brunei

Travel Tax in PHL has to be paid prior flight – PHP1,620

You must present your completed eTravel.ph form to Philippine Immigrations when you leave the country, and the same procedure applies when you return.

Currency – In addition to the Bruneian Dollar, the Singapore Dollar is accepted in Brunei. It is preferable to convert money in Brunei ATMs. Foreign exchange in the Philippines airport costs PHL 41.95 for 1BND, local ATMs in Brunei charge 2BND for every transaction and the exchange rate is bad, and the Banduri ATM costs 52.53PHP for 1BND. The Standard Chartered Bank at Gadong Mall is cheap 40.31PHP = 1BND and imposes a withdrawal fee of 5BND. I highly recommend to withdraw via Standard Chartered Bank ATMs across Brunei.

Internet Connection

The guesthouse where I stayed has wifi, which is adequate but not very fast. I did not purchase a SIM card during my visit; but, if you do wish to get one, the airport stores close at 10 p.m., so you would have to wait till the next day to do so in a mall.

Power Socket

Plug A and G, 220V

Capital: Bandar Seri Begawan

Area: 5,765 sq km

Population: 460,300

Language: Malay but everyone speaks English

Timezone – +8GMT

Weather – When I arrived, it was sunny with a temperature between 29-32 degree Celsius which was tolerable. In Brunei, there are only two distinct seasons: the warm season (February to June) and the wet season (July to January).

Transportation – Travel options include the bus, Dart (an app much like Grab or Uber), and taxis in private vehicles. I’ve used them all; the cheapest option is bus 01, which will take you right into the heart of the city for just 1BND. Otherwise, private taxis in Brunei will run you about $10 to $15..

Budget– PHP15,000 inclusive of transportation, accommodation and food

Accommodation – PHP2,937. I stayed at Miniinn Guest House, which was convenient because it was close to Gadong Mall and only 20 minutes by bus from both the city center and the airport. The kind staff plus the private bathroom in my room made for a wonderful stay. The bed I slept in was comfortable, too. There was adequate bandwidth for internet use. Due to the lack of an elevator, we suggest that only backpacks be brought. Even though my credit card wouldn’t work and I didn’t have any cash on me, they let me stay the night. The following morning, I got up and went straight to the ATM to get some cash.

Things to Note:

1. Airport stores close at 10:00pm so if you will be arriving late, please make sure to withdraw in the ATMs nearby.
2. Brunei’s official religion is Islam, hence the Arabic language, as used in the Quran, is taught in Islamic institutions and utilised as a translation to most establishments or directions.
3. Taxi fare only cost 15BND, they have cars waiting outside the arrival area
4. Most people in Brunei own cars, you rarely see people walking the streets, only tourists do this, please make sure to apply sunblock, bring water and umbrella
5. Obey and respect their rules
6. Download offline maps if you did not avail any roaming and sim card in Brunei
7. Please note that every Fridays stores only open in the afternoon around 3pm onwards

Day0 June 27 (Tuesday)
NAIA Terminal 3 Manila

The inclement weather caused my flight to be delayed from its original 7:50pm departure time. As a front-row passenger, I was able to stretch out comfortably on the flight from the Philippines to Brunei, which took off at 9:20 and landed at 11:49.

Day1 June 28 (Wednesday)
Brunei

I’d never seen an immigration officer so happy at such an early hour before my arrival at Brunei International Airport. After clearing immigration, I found the airport to be eerily quiet, with all lights off and shops shuttered. I hailed a taxi outside the terminal and had it take me to my accommodation. The cab driver charged a fixed fare of 25 BND. Even in a first-world country, it’s important to stay cautious, as some people may take advantage of tourists. I personally prefer using a transportation app for bookings—it’s more convenient, safer, and ensures fair pricing.

At around 1 in the morning, I made it to the hostel, where I checked in, showered, and went to sleep.After waking up at approximately 9:00 a.m., I headed to Gadong Mall, a shopping center just a few blocks away from the inn, to get some Dollars. After checking back into my room and making my payment, I washed and got ready to see the city’s many mosques.

Jame’ Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque
Opens Monday-Wednesday and Saturday — 8:00-12:00 AM or 2:00-3:00 PM
Sunday — 10:30-12:00 AM or 2:00-3:00 PM

The mosque’s aesthetics completely enchanted me. Never before have I seen such a magnificent mosque.With enough for 5,000 worshippers, this mosque is the largest in the nation. It seems like a contemporary mosque because of the way it was built.In honor of Brunei’s 29th Sultan, the mosque has 29 golden domes. The mosque’s golden domes give it an air of luxury. It was closed since this week in Brunei is Eid al-Adha, also known as the Feast of Sacrifice.

There were no nearby taxis or buses, so I had to walk one hour to my next destination. In this sweltering weather, I am very grateful that I had already downloaded an offline map, packed an umbrella, and used sunscreen.

Royal Regalia Museum
Entrance Foreginers – 5BND
Bruneian – Free
*needs to take off shoes, they provide keys and lockers for bags
Opens during Saturday to Thursday 9am – 5pm
Friday – Closed

I was thirsty and dehydrated following my long trek, and was offered a free water bottle upon arriving at the Royal Regalia Museum.

Located in the capital city of Bandar Seri Begawan, the Royal Regalia Museum is a tribute to Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah, who has ruled Brunei for almost fifty years and whose reign has been marked by unprecedented prosperity. Displays honoring His Majesty’s Silver and Golden Jubilee celebrations, along with exquisite mementos from historic Brunei, decorate this museum, which is filled with the splendor of Brunei’s history, from golden chariots to ancient symbolic weaponry and shields.

Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque

Bandar Seri Begawan’s glory is the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque. It is designed in a modern Islamic style, with marble minarets and a gold dome. Masjid Omar Ali Saifuddien, named after the 28th Sultan of Brunei (the late father of the current Sultan), is encircled by an artificial lagoon that acts as a reflecting pool, replicating its shining golden domes. It is frequently regarded as one of the most beautiful mosques in Asia Pacific. It is a centre of worship for the Muslim population, a significant historical landmark, and a popular Brunei tourist attraction.

I was not able to go inside because it’s already their prayer time and it’s also holiday week.

Yayasan Shopping Mall

Surprisingly, this mall is just fine and small, they also have cinema and other food stalls. I tried in their food hall – soto and bandung cincao drink

Soto (5BND) – A classic local soup noodle meal created with hot steaming beef broth and spices is widely appreciated throughout Brunei, with its own distinct recipes handed down from generation to generation. I actually did not like the taste no matter what condiments I put in, it didn’t taste well. haha

Bandung cincau (1.95BND)- It is made from evaporated or condensed milk that has been flavoured with rose syrup (rose cordial) with grass jelly (cincau) on top. This appeals to me because it is both sweet and delicious.

Gadong Night Market
Opens Everyday – 4:00pm -10:00pm

The Gadong Night Market (also known as Pasar Pelbagai Barangan Gadong or Pasar Gadong in Malay) is by far the largest market in the country, attracting a significant number of locals and tourists every night of the year.

This is the place to go if you want to try Brunei street food, the variety is beyond compare. I tried their chicken tail (tongking) for 1BND and pancake turnover (kueh malaya), I ordered kacang kismis (peanut raisin) for 1 BND a must try when in Brunei. I also take away hokkien mee for 3.5BND but did not like it, it was overcooked.

Gadong Mall

I went to Gadong Mall to see what it was like, and it’s similar to Yayasan Mall, with a movie house and a few restaurant options and shopping stalls.

Day2 June 29 (Thursday)

I awoke about 10 a.m., prepared for my check-out at 12 p.m., and left my luggage with the receptionist; Brunei is pretty safe, so it’s not a problem for me to simply leave my bags with the staff.

Nasi Katok (1BND) – A basic combination of white rice, sambal (a condiment comprised of blended chillies and other spices), and a piece of fried chicken is the epitome of Bruneian fast food, with many stores open 24 hours a day. The word Nasi Katok derives from the act of “katok” (knocking) on the window of this little flat in Bandar Seri Begawan in order to purchase “nasi” (rice). The taste was just okay for me, I prefer nasi lemak better than this dish. I ordered this just 5 minutes walk from the guesthouse.

PappaRich Brunei – household name where they cater to Malaysian Delights across Asia and the US. I ordered Hainan toast with butter and kaya + white chocolate for 10BND. I loved this dish, it was flavorful and the best food for me so far in Brunei.

I went to Yayasan Mall and across it is Brunei river where there are tour guides with boat for rent. It cost me 50 BND to tour around the Kampong Ayer and Proboscis monkey encounter.

Kampong Ayer – Kampong Ayer, in the heart of Brunei’s capital city Bandar Seri Begawan, is the world’s largest water village, dubbed “Venice of the East” and nestled along the banks of the Brunei River. “Kampong” means “village” and “Ayer” means “water” in the native language.

Proboscis Monkey – Proboscis monkeys are indigenous to Borneo’s jungles, never leaving the island’s rivers, coastal mangroves, and swamps. They are an arboreal species that will only venture onto land to find food on rare occasions. Proboscis monkeys are the most prolific swimmers in the ape world, frequently leaping from tree limbs and splashing into the water with a funny belly flop. They’ve evolved webbed feet and hands to help them outrun their major predators, which include crocodiles.

I have a lot of videos of Kampong Ayer and Proboscis Monkey, you can find it here. This was also the first time I saw a crocodile swimming in an open river. haha

Raja Isteri Pengiran Anak Hajah Saleha Bridge (RIPAS) –  world’s second longest single-pylon cable-stayed bridge.

Soto Pabo’s Ambuyat

Soto Pabo is a riverfront restaurant that specialises in local cuisine. I tasted their Ambuyat, a Brunei national dish that is also a local delicacy in the Malaysian states of Sabah. It is a dish made from the internal trunk of the sago palm. It is a starchy, bland material similar to tapioca starch. It cost me 16BND; you cannot order ambuyat alone; it must be accompanied by extra dishes. It is assumed that Bruenians do not eat this alone, hence the food is served for two people. haha

Ambuyat’s flavour startled me; its texture is similar to sticky sago, and you dip it in a spicy sauce. It was bland without the sauce. You must roll the starch around the prongs of a bamboo stick or chandas before dipping into the sauce.

Empire Hotel Brunei & Country Club
15BND for car service from Soto Pabo

The Empire Brunei is a 5-star hotel in Brunei located 15 minutes from Gadong. The South China Sea is seen from this hotel. It is the ultimate retreat for relaxing in a beautiful and natural location, surrounded by huge, unspoilt tropical rain forests filled with wildlife. When you walk into the soaring lobby with its marble pillars, gold accents, and tiger’s eye inlay, gold-plated stair rails, you know you’re in for an experience like no other.

I only wanted to watch and relax before leaving, so I waited for the sunset. More video here.

I hailed via Dart to go back to the guesthouse and left by 7:30pm to go to the airport. My flight was not delayed and arrived the following day in manila by 2:00am, waited at the airport so I can travel back to my home in Batangas around 5:00am.

Brunei is home to some of Asia’s most magnificent examples of Islamic architecture, which elegantly blends ancient and futuristic aspects. Despite its beautiful mosques and jungle-rich surroundings, Brunei is one of the world’s least visited countries. I enjoyed everything about this place; the locals are so kind, and the proboscis monkey encounter was unforgettable! I will definitely return to relax here next time!

Love,

Maria, sometimes, Niskie